Road Trip to Texas – Day 3

On Tuesday night we drove into New Mexico  in the middle of a heavy storm. After a night in a motel we headed out for a full day of sight-seeing. We over-estimated what we could actually do in the day. It’s easy to pick out all the places you want to stop when you’re looking at a map but it doesn’t always work out that way when you’re on the road.

We thought we had planned a reasonable amount of driving to see Valles Caldera National Preserve and Bandalier National Monument. After all, they are right next to each other. But as it turned out we barely got out of the car–certainly not to do any exploring of either of these parks.East of GallupWe began our drive by crossing the Continental Divide not far east of Gallup. The terrain is quite different than where we crossed the Divide last year in Yellowstone but spectacular in it’s own way.DSC_6986

We drove Hwy. 40 on the way to Albuquerque and I took photos out the window.

DSC_6991  From the drive through Mojave National Preserve on Sunday to Wednesday (when I’m writing this post) I have been using my iPhone to look up information about towns we are passing. A continuing theme is the significance of the railroad in the history of the west and the rise (and fall) of many of the towns. We saw plenty of trains during this drive, starting with the grade in the Tehachapi’s in California.

About ten miles from Albuquerque we turned north to drive a scenic loop which would take us to Valles Caldera and Bandalier.Jemez River-Soda Dam We stopped along Jemez River at a sign for Soda Dam. This dam was formed over centuries by deposits of calcium carbonate and is still forming as the river runs under it. It is 300 feet long, 50 feet high, and 50 feet wide at the base. The river was flowing fast.

Jemez River, muddy water  We were surprised by the muddy water, a result of the previous night’s storms.

The drive continued to Valles Caldera National Preserve. I had read that this is a Preserve formed by volcanic activity and I had expected to see lava and cinder cone types of landscape as we have seen in other parks. I had no idea that we were going to see a gorgeous grassland. Valles Caldera Natl PreserveThis is some of the most spectacular country I have seen. We stood over this caldera in awe and the photos certainly don’t do it justice.Valles Caldera Natl Preserve (1)According to the sign we were standing on the rim of a collapsed super-volcano, 12 miles in diameter and magma is only 5 miles beneath.

Here we faced a dilemma. We had just arrived and what a beautiful place to explore, but it was already mid-afternoon. We had another park to see, a potential errand in Santa Fe, and, as Dan reminded me, our real goal of this trip was to get to Texas by Thursday. So we passed up this beautiful spot and drove on.

We saw a sign at the Bandelier National Monument that entrance was by shuttle only and the shuttle was caught at another location. At that point we knew that we had hopelessly overestimated what we could do in a day and decided to just head for Santa Fe.

I had a thought that maybe I could find some “locally produced wool” in Santa Fe, a city with the reputation for being an art and fiber mecca. Maybe that would have worked had I known ahead of time that I was going to be there and had done some research and planning. But this last minute attempt was an exercise in frustration. Googling “local wool in Santa Fe” got me a yarn store/coffee shop combo but all they had was some alpaca yarn from a local source–not what I was looking for. I tried again and found a woman who does sell fiber from her farm but with all the recent rain she not only hadn’t shorn yet, but her road was impassable.  Lesson learned. If I had planned ahead maybe I could have managed some local wool, but not at the spur of the moment. I have been on the other end of this–people calling me to say that they are in the area and would like to shop and am I home? I also thought of my friend Stephany (and her wool-related blog) who started on a journey that led her from a San Francisco tech job to shearing sheep and to Farm Club all because she was trying to find local wool in the Bay Area.

Wow! That was a digression. My frustration about overestimating our ability to see what we wanted to and then failing at the simple task in Santa Fe was on top of needing to eat because we hadn’t taken time to dig out the ice chest. I felt a melt-down coming on. Then I had an emergency call from friends who were helping take care of sheep. Wait until you read about that one in the next blog. That crisis was solved (by multiple phone calls and texts) and we made peanut butter sandwiches. All was better and Dan and I drove on heading south for Roswell, New Mexico.central NM, south of Santa FeWe had been lucky with the weather the whole day. Other than the previous night we hadn’t been rained on. But we could watch the weather while we were driving. There is lots of flat landscape on the drive through central New Mexico, but I am just glad to see that there is so much unpopulated land in our fabulous country. The tune “wide open spaces” continued to run through my head (as did “standing on the corner…” from yesterday).Train in central NMAnother train view but this is a train made up of a dozen engines. We saw this the previous day also. Mulitple engines are used to pull (and push?) trains up the long grades and I guess they send those engines back to be ready for the next train. Many hours of driving later and about dusk we got to Roswell, infamous for it’s UFO reputation.Motel in Roswell NM

Road Trip to Texas – Day 2

After being pleasantly surprised about our camping spot chosen in the dark I went on an early morning walk in the Mojave National Preserve. Mohave National Preserve

Catclaw acacia, Acacia greggii Catclaw acacia.DSC_6847

jack rabbitAfter stowing our gear we set off north to see what the town of Kelso looked like. Have you ever seen a sign with a flashing light that cautions you to watch for tortoises? I never had and I wish I had stopped for a photo. It was one of those things that I thought I’d do on the way back but we ended up making a loop through the preserve.

DSC_6892First stop was Kelso, a ghost town and defunct railway depot. Most of the building in town are gone but the railway depot was restored and serves as the visitor center.DSC_6891This is a jail cell that was used from the mid-1940s to1985 to “confine drunks or other unruly individuals for a night or two”. The placard said that there was a corrugated shell to protect from rain and sun but that “prisoners rarely spent more than one night in the jail”.

The Preserve contains three major desert ecosystems–Mojave, Great Basin, and Sonoran, as well as the world’s largest and densest Joshua tree forest.We wound our way through the Joshua tree and then pinyon-juniper ecosystems and also saw the affects of the previous night’s rain–flooded gullies and washes. Our next stop was at the “Hole in the Wall”…

IMG_5143 …where we did a one-mile hike that took us through Banshee Canyon.Mohave National Preserve (1)Mohave National Preserve (2)IMG_5147Petroglyphs on the other side of the bluffs.

I was glad to spend some time in the preserve but our goal was to get to Texas and we hadn’t even left California. So we got in the truck and headed for Arizona. DSC_6926We wanted to see as many “points of interest” as possible but since our real goal was to get to Texas we considered this mainly an on-the-road trip, seeing the country along the way, but without a lot of time to spend in any one place.

DSC_6932 About 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff we stopped at Walnut Canyon National Monument, but the trails to the cave dwellings were already closed for the day. However we could view them from short trail along the top of the canyon. Can you spot the dwellings just below that ridge on the right?

DSC_6933 So that was a quick walk on the nature trail and a chance to stretch our legs and we took off again. I told Dan that we had to stop in Winslow. IMG_5151 (1)He was a good sport about standing on the corner. But it turned out to be the wrong corner. The green sign points to the other corner. IMG_5156 IMG_5158It turns out that there were a lot of people also standing on the corner. You almost have to wait in line for your turn at the corner. A quick stop in a souvenir shop and we got on the road again.

All the next photos were taken from the truck.

DSC_6947 Beautiful sky and landscape.

DSC_6949 DSC_6956 We needed to figure out where to spend the night but most of the land on the way to New Mexico is either privately owned or reservation land, so camping wasn’t an option. Seeing the clouds and lightening to the east was the other reason to find a motel for the night and we decided to make it to Gallup, New Mexico. These shots were taken on the way to Gallup, starting about 15 miles away. Incredible rainbow.

DSC_6961 DSC_6966 DSC_6971 DSC_6973   

DSC_6978

More tomorrow.

Road Trip to Texas – Day 1

It is exhausting going on vacation…the part before you actually leave. Thanks to friends and family who are taking care of things while we’re gone.DSC_6828 (1) DSC_6830 (1) Self portrait.DSC_6832 (1) Near Tehachapi from the truck window.IMG_5133 We didn’t leave the house until 1:30 and wanted to get some miles behind us the first day. We finally needed to stop and eat. For the first day or two we planned to eat out of the ice chest using up food from our refrigerator. So we had salads and hard boiled eggs at a rest stop near Boron. Trivia: Did you know that the 20-mule train teams that hauled boron out of Death Valley were actually 18 mules and 2 draft horses?

Usually we sleep in the back of the truck when we need to stop but this time the truck was packed full with some of the things that Katie has had stored at our house. I had visions of the Conestoga wagons carrying the precious possessions that pioneers wanted to have with them. I loaded my grandmother’s secretary desk that I used as a kid, an old trunk that was also from a grandparent, and my grandmother’s delicate tile-topped table into the truck. One of the grandmothers was from New York so the desk and the table (and I don’t remember about the trunk) came from there to CA, probably by moving van and now were being carried in a pick-up truck back east to TX. Stuffed around and in the furniture are things Katie had packed in boxes–Breyers horses, trophies from her dairy cattle showing days, stuffed animals (lots of stuffed animals),  horse tack, lots of other memorabilia, and two oil paintings that my aunt painted. Dan reminded me, as we had to keep unpacking and repacking the largest painting when we needed something from the back of the truck, that the pioneers ended up leaving things along the trail.

Anyway, we brought a tent because we knew we couldn’t sleep in the truck on the trip out to TX.IMG_5136 (2)We drove into the Preserve and took a dirt road watching lightening in the distance. We finally found a place where we could park and set up a tent. The moon was spectacular although not a full moon.IMG_5139Here is what it looked like in the morning.

Road Trip – Days 8 & 9

After leaving Imperial Stock Ranch in Oregon we were heading home. There are a lot of landscape photos at 70 mph in this post. I could have left out the blurry ones, but…hmmm…then I wouldn’t have all the impressions that I want to remember. Sorry. It makes me appreciate other people’s very sharp photos that much more.   Leaving Imperial Stock Ranch The trusty green truck that Dan got for $5 when his dad moved to Hawaii. Landscape off Hwy. 97 in north-central Oregon.DSC_5220 pivot  DSC_5233 Sunset on Klamath Lake Sunset over Klamath Lake in Oregon.

It was dark as we were looking for a place to camp along the road in California. I realized later that Dan had an ulterior motive for wanting to make it as far as Military Pass Rd., off of Hwy. 97 before it joins up with I-5. If you want to hike the north or east sides of Mt. Shasta that is where you find the trailheads and he wants to do that trip before he goes back to teaching in August.campsite in morning, Military Pass Rd. We found a place off the main road, ate what was left in the ice chest, and went to sleep. This is what it looked like in the morning.Mt. Shasta from Military Pass Rd.This is the view from our “campsite”.DSC_0522It’s always a thrill to see Mt. Shasta when you drive into California from the north. The peak is 14,162′ and Shastina to the west is 12,330′. DSC_5251

We spent the morning driving  the roads that circle Mt. Shasta to the east and finally join up with the highway to head south.DSC_5254McCloud River We stopped several times at campsites and trails along the beautiful McCloud River.McCloud RiverDSC_5270 DSC_5280

Finally on the last leg home. No more stops.Shasta Lake in drought Passing Shasta Lake, indicative of California’s severe drought. This is only June and the lake should be filled with snowmelt.Dry hills Dry hills typical of the Mediterranean climate of California. Most parts of California have dry summers and wet winters. We depend on the winter rain and snowfall to fill reservoirs and replenish acquirers to be able to produce the abundant agricultural crops that California is known for. farmland, rice fields With irrigation this is what the Central Valley looks like. This is a rice field.Yolo County This land is usually brilliant green from about October into April. The brown landscape is normal for unirrigated land. However, last year we had an early rain (September?) and then nothing. What grass germinated died. Many ranchers who depend on the fall grass to feed their cattle and sheep had to sell their livestock. The next rains came in January and they were meager. There was not enough rain or snow, especially following other years of relatively dry conditions, to catch up. You can read about the affect of the drought on California’s farmers and ranchersat Voices from the Drought on Facebook.dry hills, yolo countyfarmland, new vineyardalfalfa Harvesting hay.sunflowersSunflowers at 70 mph. The dry hills are typical of California in the summer. The valley crops are grown with irrigation water.

Well, I got sidetracked into a semi-documentary. These photos in Yolo and Solano Counties meant that we were getting closer to home.

Here is who greeted us when we pulled in (my camera doesn’t seem to be doing any better at 0 mph).

DSC_5316 DSC_5317We had a wonderful trip but it’s good to be home.

 

 

Road Trip – 2nd half of Day 8 – Oregon

After touring Pendleton Woolen Mill we got on the road again. Just as we were getting on the freeway to head west we saw this scene:PendletonHerding cattle next to the freeway and across lawn? Look again.Pendleton These are beautifully made full-size sculptures.DSC_5105Not far from Pendleton Highway 84 meets up with and then follows the Columbia River. John Day Dam We followed the Columbia River. This is the John Day Lock and Dam.DSC_5120 In some places we saw windsurfers on the river, but elsewhere there were huge barges. I don’t have photos but we also saw several bighorn sheep on the rocky cliffs just south of the highway in this area. DSC_5128We turned south onto Highway 97 which would take us all the way to California.DSC_5126 More stunning landscape, sky and wide, open spaces.DSC_5134 Rolling hills of wheat.DSC_5142 Isolated ranches and distant mountains.

We passed the town of Shaniko (population of 36 at 2010 census) which was known in 1900 as the Wool Capitol of the World. The largest landowner at the time was R.R. Hinton who had first homesteaded in the 1870’s and continued to purchase land until his Imperial Stock Ranch became the largest individually owned ranch in Oregon. The Imperial Stock Ranch eventually ran 35,000 head of sheep in 12-14 bands that would winter on the home ranch and be trailed to summer range on Forest Service land. Hinton was involved in breeding programs that led to the one of the first sheep breeds developed in the U.S., the large-framed, fine-wooled Columbia sheep, originating from Lincoln and Rambouillet ancestors.  The newly formed town of Shaniko (built as the railroad reached the area) was less than 15 miles from the Imperial Stock Ranch’s headquarters,  and its wool warehouse shipped 4 million pounds of wool by rail in 1901.DSC_5166Imperial Stock Ranch is now owned by Dan and Jeannie Carver and they have developed the Imperial Yarn Company using Columbia wool produced on the ranch and elsewhere in the state. This is some of my favorite yarn in the shop and I have recently been using it to weave blankets. Since we were going to be driving through this part of Oregon I had asked if we could visit the ranch. The photo above is the road into the headquarters. DSC_5158

Keelia, lives on the ranch and was there to show us around the headquarters. This is the house built by R.R. Hinton, now headquarters of the Yarn Company.DSC_5160The headquarters complex has been entered into the National Register of Historic Places and the history of the buildings and the Hinton family are available for review.Silo

The grain silo. See the detail of the construction below. Silo This is one sturdy building.  We also saw the shearing shed and other buildings that are still in use.IMG_0095A few bottle lambs hand out under the house to greet visitors.DSC_5197 As we left the ranch headquarters some of the sheep were near enough the road to get some photographs of them in this majestic setting.DSC_5203DSC_5209DSC_5217Back on the road on the last leg of the trip.

Next post: California’s scenery isn’t too shabby either. Mt. Shasta and home.

 

Road Trip – Day 7 – West to Oregon

The plan for this day was to end up near Pendleton, Oregon because I wanted to go on a tour of the Pendleton Woolen Mill on Monday morning,

This was another early morning with no dawdling around camp. No rain or snow, no moths or mosquitos (see earlier posts), but it was cold and we had places to go. Before we left Yellowstone we checked on a couple of sites that we hadn’t seen during the previous two days.DSC_4988 Boiling mud at Artists’ PaintpotsDSC_5003 There are no photos, but we were struck by the crass commercialization of  the town of West Yellowstone, just outside the West entrance to the Yellowstone. It made us very appreciative of the Rockefeller Parkway, that preserves 24,000 acres connecting Grand Tetons National Park and Yellowstone. Some of this land was purchased by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. to prevent commercialization and ensure preservation of the Yellowstone Basin ecosystem. It is now administered by the National Park System.Continental Divide, Idaho DSC_5014 Once on the road we didn’t stop very much so many of my photos are from the highway. I was continually amazed by the huge pivot systems up to 1/4 mile long which means they are irrigating circles of 1/2 mile in diameter. map booksWe were entertained by following our map books. We started out with California and Nevada. I think we picked up Idaho somewhere on the way. Later we found Montana and Wyoming in a used bookstore in Jackson, WY. Eventually we found Oregon in a bookstore in Pendleton. We found these books to be a way to keep the travel interesting even in the broad stretches of “nothing” in the high desert landscapes. There are always geological formations, land features, mines or mountain-tops with names and the books offer much more detail as far as land ownership and dirt roads than regular road maps. The books came in particularly useful when we wanted to camp along the way and find roads into Forest Service land. (Yes, I also have an iPhone and I use it, but there is not always service and sometimes it’s just easier to see the whole thing on one page.)DSC_5017On Day 2 we got interested in the fact that our route followed the California Trail used by the pioneers in the 1800’s. Now we were following the Oregon Trail. These map books also indicated these trails and all the interpretive centers along the way.DSC_5018  We stopped at Glenn’s Ferry and spent about an hour at their historical center.Three Island Crossing at Glenn's Ferry, IDThis is called Three Island Crossing (those larger trees are on islands in the middle of the river) and is where the covered wagons crossed the Snake River. The river was much different before it was dammed and the crossings were dangerous.

While traveling in Idaho I discovered this very cool  Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide of the Oregon Trail as it follows the Snake River in Idaho. This guide includes info about the trail, the events that occurred at specific sites along it, and excerpts from pioneer diaries. I’m not much of  a history buff but this was a fun way to learn more about this part of our history and it is much more meaningful when you are seeing the landscape–rivers, mountains, deserts in much the same way that those pioneers saw them, but of course with much different perspective. I highly recommend traveling with the map book open on the lap while reading the info on the iPhone.DSC_5023 We made it to Oregon by late afternoon.DSC_5027Wide open spaces.DSC_5020

DSC_5024Oregon Trail Marker

There is a what looked like a very cool interpretive center near Baker City, Oregon but we were there too late in the day. This marker indicates…Oregon Trail …the remnants of the actual trail.

Even without the aid of the Oregon map book (which we didn’t buy until the next day) we found a place to spend the night. We think this was Forest Service land, but maybe not.DSC_5037 Dan received Father’s Day greetings from the kids.DSC_5042 We wondered a short distance from camp and enjoyed the greenery of the forest after driving through the desert. This area is part of the Blue Mountain Range which was a formidable obstacle for the pioneers. Columbine But it was close to dark when we stopped so once again we didn’t linger over dinner. I don’t even remember what it was–I think we were using up what was left…crackers, peanut butter, cheese, yogurt, carrots. We needed to get on the road fairly early to make sure we got to Pendleton in time for the 9:00 mill tour.DSC_5048 

Next up: A day of travel that includes wool and sheep.

 

Road Trip – Day 6 – Another Day at Yellowstone

In the last post did I say how cold it was when we went to bed the first night in Yellowstone? The cold plus the bison in the campground make me wish that I didn’t have that middle-of-the-night call of nature. However, maybe that’s a good thing because it was starting to rain and I shut the tailgate and the camper window. When everything is shut up it is warmer inside, but it is also stuffy and the windows get wet with condensation. There are trade-offs and stuffiness is probably better than feet in a wet sleeping bag especially when the temperature dips into the 20’s. The green truck is too old to show the temp but that’s what my iPhone said when I asked. So instead of rain we had snow during the night. Not a lot, but nevertheless, snow. Once again we didn’t linger over our breakfast of instant oatmeal but got in the truck and turned the heater on.

I chose way too many photos for this day’s blog and I should cut some out, but I probably won’t. I like blogs that are mostly photos…

Our plan for this day was to drive the northern loop starting with Mammoth Hot Springs and ending with the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.DSC_4745Not far from the campground we saw our first grizzly bears – from the safety of our truck. (Even though I have been told by blog readers that the bear we saw in Grand Teton was a grizzly bear and not a black bear we thought it was a black bear at the time and I prefer to think that we were hiking with black bears, not grizzlies.) The one on the left was eating a carcass of something and was wearing a collar. They were being watched by a park biologist. I wonder if the park personnel always keep track of bears that are collared and monitor them when they show up near a road? One thing that we learned quickly is that being a Park Ranger in Yellowstone means Wildlife Traffic Patrol. Do you know an easy way to spot wildlife?DSC_4801Just look for parked cars and people walking along the road.DSC_4750It didn’t take long to find more bison…DSC_4755 …and more bears. This one wasn’t alone.grizzly bear grizzly bearI know, the sagebrush is more in focus than the bears, but that may be my last grizzly bear photo.

It was still early and when we got to Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces the weather was not looking good. It was cold and windy and during our walk along the boardwalk trails it started snowing. But the changing conditions only made the views more dramatic.DSC_4781Mammoth Hot SpringsDSC_4779 

Mammoth Hot SpringsDSC_4790  We didn’t hike any long trails on this day but there were many shorter hikes.Scanning for bears, Wraith Falls Trail There were people stopped on the road watching a black bear when we got out of the truck to take a half mile trail to see Wraith Falls. Dan was trying to decide if the bear was still entertaining people on the road or had retreated in our direction. Note bear spray with orange cap in the backpack pocket.

There are several one-way roads that you can use to get off the main road. Blacktail Plateau DriveBlacktail Plateau Drive is one of them and the scenery is majestic.Wild flax To my surprise Dan asked if I wanted to stop and take flower photos. I am usually teased about this habit. This one is wild flax.Phlox Phlox.

blue flower

I wish I knew what this flower is. From a distance it looks like single blue flowers. It’s only when you get up close that you see that it is lots of little tiny flowers.1936 Yellowstone tour busWe stopped at another waterfall trailhead and Dan took this photo of a 1936 touring van that he had just read about. These were canvas topped vehicles used in many of the national parks. They seated 14 people and in cold weather (at least in the northern parks) they provided Pendleton wool blankets for the passengers. At least some of the vehicles were used into the 1990’s when they were just too old to keep running. The Park Service replaced the old vehicles with modern Dodge vans but the visitors wanted the old touring vans. So they are on the road again but Ford kept just the top part and replaced the chassis (and all the important things like brakes) with new parts. raven

Speaking of vehicles it seemed as though each of the parking lots at the main attractions had it’s own sentry. This one was eating crackers.

It was getting late in the day by the time we got to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. There are several access points and trails on both the north and south sides. We knew that we didn’t have time to hike all the trails, but we went to  all the overlooks and walked a few of the trails. Uncle Tom's Point trail to Lower FallsWe took Uncle Tom’s trail to a viewing spot of the Lower Falls. Writing this blog I’m in a tank top and shorts with the fan on and it’s hard to remember that just 10 days ago I was bundled in two layers of wool, my Carhartt jacket, wool hat, and gloves. Uncle Tom's Point trail to Lower FallsOriginally this trail had over 500 steps and rope ladders. Now it has only 328 steps and no ladders. Lower FallsThe trail no longer takes you all the way to the bottom but you still hear and feel the power of the water cascading over the rocks. I love the green color of the water here.DSC_4922 This is a scene of the canyon and the river taken from another viewing area. Simply majestic.Osprey in nest I don’t think that I would have spotted this osprey nest except that some other people were looking with binoculars.Osprey in nest See what I mean? The top photo is a close-up of this one.Grand Canyon of the YellowstoneDSC_4961Another beautiful evening. Again we got back to camp at dusk, ate a couple of cans of beans and went to bed.

Next post: On the road to Oregon

 

Road Trip – Day 5 – Yellowstone

The mosquito situation in camp was no better than the night before so we didn’t linger in camp on our fourth morning. We took just enough time to get our food out of the bear box and for Dan to make his coffee and we got on the road. There are plenty more trails to explore in the Tetons and I hope to make it back there some day.DSC_4525 But this was our next stop and we had two days to see as much of it as we could.Bison Not far into the park we saw our first bison. Initially we didn’t stop for much  because we needed to find a campsite in one of the non-reservation campgrounds. After we secured a spot we were free to plan the day. There are two main loop roads in Yellowstone and we spent the first day exploring the southern one. DSC_4530 This is the Norris Geyser Basin, not far from our campground. That steam on the left was rising out of the ground with the sound of a roaring a furnace. The trail traverses this valley and there are steamy, boiling, gurgling features everywhere.

I took Geology my first quarter of college and decided that I would not be a geologist. I am definitely more of a life sciences type, but I can be awed by these spectacles even if I don’t know the physical science behind them. This landscape is all about color, patterns, bubbles, steam, explosions.DSC_4538   Bison footprints Bison footprints.DSC_4576  DSC_4597 DSC_4604 DSC_4616 DSC_4655 Blue Star Spring in Upper Geyser Basin Upper Geyser Basin Then there is the wildlife.Bison on road along Firehole RiverOn the way south towards Upper Geyser Basin (where Old Faithful is) traffic was stopped on the road. Going around a turn we saw the cause. Bison were walking alongside and on the road. Why not? It was certainly the easiest way to get from one meadow area to another, especially where this canyon narrowed. Passengers scurried ahead of their cars (leaving drivers) to get a better look.DSC_4568Eventually it was our turn to pass the three dozen or more bison as they turned from the road and moved into the forest.Osprey  Osprey over the Upper Geyser Basin. We got to the Visitor Center and Old Faithful just minutes before Old Faithful was due to erupt. After watching we faced a furious wind as we walked a couple of miles along the boardwalks and trails that traverse the Basin, seeing more of this amazing landscape. Craig Pass, It was getting later in the day as we completed the loop road to get back to camp. The road crosses the Continental Divide a couple of times in this area. Living on the West Coast we always think of all water ending up in the Pacific, but crossing the Divide twice in a short distance made me think about it.  We had been following two major waterways, but they end up in different places, the Snake River flowing westward and the Yellowstone River flowing east.DSC_4741 As dusk falls even more animals are visible, although not easy to photograph. It was dark by the time we got back to camp for dinner. I walked up the hill to the bathroom and a woman who was waiting while her cell phone charged pointed out to me what looked like … nothing…well maybe more black than the rest of the dark. There were two bison munching on grass right next to an RV. In the dark it was as though there was a Black Hole. I would never have known they were there. The woman told me that the bison had just walked around the bathroom and stopped to graze there. At that point I decided that the weak batteries in my headlamp were not adequate for the task of walking around Yellowstone at night. 

No moths or mosquitoes at this campsite, but it was dark when we got back, we were out of firewood and it was cold. We quickly cooked our spaghetti and some hot chocolate and went to bed.

Stay tuned for Day 6.

Road Trip – more of Day 4

In yesterday’s post about the Tetons I mentioned that in between hikes we went to the National Museum of Wildlife Art. Sculpture at National Museum of Wildlife ArtThis fabulous museum is on a hill overlooking the National Elk Refuge.National Elk Refuge across from Museum of Wildlife ArtThis is a view to the east looking from the museum.  Grand Teton National Park is north of the museum and the elk refuge.Sculpture at National Museum of Wildlife Art There are several large sculptures on the grounds of the museum and they plan to eventually have about thirty.Sculpture at National Museum of Wildlife Art

 

Sculpture at National Museum of Wildlife ArtSculpture at National Museum of Wildlife Art Unfortunately we had only 45 minutes before the museum closed and we quickly realized that you could spend several hours to fully appreciate all that is there. I took only a few photos as we rushed from room to room to see paintings, sculpture, glass, photography, and even skulls.  IMG_9968The collection includes paintings from old masters such as this one painted about 1650 by Paul de Vos that depicts what may be a biblical scene with a touch of the hunting genre thrown in to much more contemporary art.Bighorn Sheep by Carl Rungius, 1940, at National Museum of Wildlife ArtPainting by Carl Rungius, 1940.Charles Russell exhibit at National Museum of Wildlife ArtThere was a room devoted to wildlife art by Charles Russell and I took a few photos there before reading the sign that you weren’t supposed to photograph any the Russell work.

I wish that we had more time to spend at this museum. It is definitely worth a stop on any trip to the area.

Road Trip – Day 4 – More of the Grand Tetons

DSC_4359 It was cool in the mornings at Grand Teton National Park, but the main reason to suit-up was to keep the mosquitoes off. They were awful–not very conducive to hanging around camp in the morning. That was not our plan anyway — too many places to see, too little time. As soon as Dan had his coffee we were ready to go.DSC_4360 Look who came to the campground for breakfast.DSC_4366 Hiking near String LakeOur first hike for the second day in Grand Teton NP was around String Lake. DSC_4394 Yellow-bellied marmot.Avalanche chuteAt several places there was evidence of avalanches that took out all the trees in their paths and… avalanche chute …obliterated the trail in some places. DSC_4410DSC_4422 Crossing the river at Jenny Lake we saw our first moose.DSC_4428 This is another moose we saw in a meadow along the road on the way to our second stop of the day.

Lunch stop, "Solid 10 for style and effort"

We drove to trailheads at Lupine Meadows…DSC_0463…where we had lunch. You can’t tell from the photo but it was very windy here. Dan sprinted to chase down a plastic bag that blew quite a distance across the parking area.  One of the visitors later stopped at our truck and told him that he and his passengers gave him a “perfect 10 for style and execution”.DSC_4443 We were near the south end of the park and decided to backtrack a short way down the valley to see the National Museum of Wildlife Art. That will be a blog post by itself.DSC_4472 Back in the park we went for another hike, this time to Taggert Lake.DSC_4475 There are magnificent views though out the park.IMG_0062 

Signal Mtn trailAs the sun was going down we drove to the top of Signal Mountain. More spectacular views, but also an unbelievable number of mosquitoes.Signal Mtn trail from Signal Mtn.Late evening view from Signal Mountain.

Once again we got back to camp after dark, so we cooked our meal (spaghetti) and went to bed.