Road Trip to Texas – Day 3

Posted on July 9, 2015 by Robin

On Tuesday night we drove into New Mexico in the middle of a heavy storm. After a night in a motel we headed out for a full day of sight-seeing. We over-estimated what we could actually do in the day. It’s easy to pick out all the places you want to stop when you’re looking at a map but it doesn’t always work out that way when you’re on the road.

We thought we had planned a reasonable amount of driving to see Valles Caldera National Preserve and Bandalier National Monument. After all, they are right next to each other. But as it turned out we barely got out of the car–certainly not to do any exploring of either of these parks.We began our drive by crossing the Continental Divide not far east of Gallup. The terrain is quite different than where we crossed the Divide last year in Yellowstone but spectacular in it’s own way.

We drove Hwy. 40 on the way to Albuquerque and I took photos out the window.

From the drive through Mojave National Preserve on Sunday to Wednesday (when I’m writing this post) I have been using my iPhone to look up information about towns we are passing. A continuing theme is the significance of the railroad in the history of the west and the rise (and fall) of many of the towns. We saw plenty of trains during this drive, starting with the grade in the Tehachapi’s in California.

About ten miles from Albuquerque we turned north to drive a scenic loop which would take us to Valles Caldera and Bandalier. We stopped along Jemez River at a sign for Soda Dam. This dam was formed over centuries by deposits of calcium carbonate and is still forming as the river runs under it. It is 300 feet long, 50 feet high, and 50 feet wide at the base. The river was flowing fast.

We were surprised by the muddy water, a result of the previous night’s storms.

The drive continued to Valles Caldera National Preserve. I had read that this is a Preserve formed by volcanic activity and I had expected to see lava and cinder cone types of landscape as we have seen in other parks. I had no idea that we were going to see a gorgeous grassland. This is some of the most spectacular country I have seen. We stood over this caldera in awe and the photos certainly don’t do it justice. Valles Caldera Natl Preserve (1) According to the sign we were standing on the rim of a collapsed super-volcano, 12 miles in diameter and magma is only 5 miles beneath.

Here we faced a dilemma. We had just arrived and what a beautiful place to explore, but it was already mid-afternoon. We had another park to see, a potential errand in Santa Fe, and, as Dan reminded me, our real goal of this trip was to get to Texas by Thursday. So we passed up this beautiful spot and drove on.

We saw a sign at the Bandelier National Monument that entrance was by shuttle only and the shuttle was caught at another location. At that point we knew that we had hopelessly overestimated what we could do in a day and decided to just head for Santa Fe.

I had a thought that maybe I could find some “locally produced wool” in Santa Fe, a city with the reputation for being an art and fiber mecca. Maybe that would have worked had I known ahead of time that I was going to be there and had done some research and planning. But this last minute attempt was an exercise in frustration. Googling “local wool in Santa Fe” got me a yarn store/coffee shop combo but all they had was some alpaca yarn from a local source–not what I was looking for. I tried again and found a woman who does sell fiber from her farm but with all the recent rain she not only hadn’t shorn yet, but her road was impassable. Lesson learned. If I had planned ahead maybe I could have managed some local wool, but not at the spur of the moment. I have been on the other end of this–people calling me to say that they are in the area and would like to shop and am I home? I also thought of my friend Stephany (and her wool-related blog) who started on a journey that led her from a San Francisco tech job to shearing sheep and to Farm Club all because she was trying to find local wool in the Bay Area.

Wow! That was a digression. My frustration about overestimating our ability to see what we wanted to and then failing at the simple task in Santa Fe was on top of needing to eat because we hadn’t taken time to dig out the ice chest. I felt a melt-down coming on. Then I had an emergency call from friends who were helping take care of sheep. Wait until you read about that one in the next blog. That crisis was solved (by multiple phone calls and texts) and we made peanut butter sandwiches. All was better and Dan and I drove on heading south for Roswell, New Mexico. central NM, south of Santa Fe We had been lucky with the weather the whole day. Other than the previous night we hadn’t been rained on. But we could watch the weather while we were driving. There is lots of flat landscape on the drive through central New Mexico, but I am just glad to see that there is so much unpopulated land in our fabulous country. The tune “wide open spaces” continued to run through my head (as did “standing on the corner…” from yesterday). Train in central NM Another train view but this is a train made up of a dozen engines. We saw this the previous day also. Mulitple engines are used to pull (and push?) trains up the long grades and I guess they send those engines back to be ready for the next train. Many hours of driving later and about dusk we got to Roswell, infamous for it’s UFO reputation. Motel in Roswell NM

Road Trip to Texas – Day 2

Posted on July 7, 2015 by Robin

After being pleasantly surprised about our camping spot chosen in the dark I went on an early morning walk in the Mojave National Preserve.

Catclaw acacia.

jack rabbit After stowing our gear we set off north to see what the town of Kelso looked like. Have you ever seen a sign with a flashing light that cautions you to watch for tortoises? I never had and I wish I had stopped for a photo. It was one of those things that I thought I’d do on the way back but we ended up making a loop through the preserve.

First stop was Kelso, a ghost town and defunct railway depot. Most of the building in town are gone but the railway depot was restored and serves as the visitor center.This is a jail cell that was used from the mid-1940s to1985 to “confine drunks or other unruly individuals for a night or two”. The placard said that there was a corrugated shell to protect from rain and sun but that “prisoners rarely spent more than one night in the jail”.

The Preserve contains three major desert ecosystems–Mojave, Great Basin, and Sonoran, as well as the world’s largest and densest Joshua tree forest.We wound our way through the Joshua tree and then pinyon-juniper ecosystems and also saw the affects of the previous night’s rain–flooded gullies and washes. Our next stop was at the “Hole in the Wall”…

…where we did a one-mile hike that took us through Banshee Canyon.Petroglyphs on the other side of the bluffs.

I was glad to spend some time in the preserve but our goal was to get to Texas and we hadn’t even left California. So we got in the truck and headed for Arizona. We wanted to see as many “points of interest” as possible but since our real goal was to get to Texas we considered this mainly an on-the-road trip, seeing the country along the way, but without a lot of time to spend in any one place.

About 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff we stopped at Walnut Canyon National Monument, but the trails to the cave dwellings were already closed for the day. However we could view them from short trail along the top of the canyon. Can you spot the dwellings just below that ridge on the right?

So that was a quick walk on the nature trail and a chance to stretch our legs and we took off again. I told Dan that we had to stop in Winslow. He was a good sport about standing on the corner. But it turned out to be the wrong corner. The green sign points to the other corner. It turns out that there were a lot of people also standing on the corner. You almost have to wait in line for your turn at the corner. A quick stop in a souvenir shop and we got on the road again.

All the next photos were taken from the truck.

Beautiful sky and landscape.

We needed to figure out where to spend the night but most of the land on the way to New Mexico is either privately owned or reservation land, so camping wasn’t an option. Seeing the clouds and lightening to the east was the other reason to find a motel for the night and we decided to make it to Gallup, New Mexico. These shots were taken on the way to Gallup, starting about 15 miles away. Incredible rainbow.

More tomorrow.

Road Trip to Texas – Day 1

Posted on July 7, 2015 by Robin

It is exhausting going on vacation…the part before you actually leave. Thanks to friends and family who are taking care of things while we’re gone. Self portrait. Near Tehachapi from the truck window. We didn’t leave the house until 1:30 and wanted to get some miles behind us the first day. We finally needed to stop and eat. For the first day or two we planned to eat out of the ice chest using up food from our refrigerator. So we had salads and hard boiled eggs at a rest stop near Boron. Trivia: Did you know that the 20-mule train teams that hauled boron out of Death Valley were actually 18 mules and 2 draft horses?

Usually we sleep in the back of the truck when we need to stop but this time the truck was packed full with some of the things that Katie has had stored at our house. I had visions of the Conestoga wagons carrying the precious possessions that pioneers wanted to have with them. I loaded my grandmother’s secretary desk that I used as a kid, an old trunk that was also from a grandparent, and my grandmother’s delicate tile-topped table into the truck. One of the grandmothers was from New York so the desk and the table (and I don’t remember about the trunk) came from there to CA, probably by moving van and now were being carried in a pick-up truck back east to TX. Stuffed around and in the furniture are things Katie had packed in boxes–Breyers horses, trophies from her dairy cattle showing days, stuffed animals (lots of stuffed animals), horse tack, lots of other memorabilia, and two oil paintings that my aunt painted. Dan reminded me, as we had to keep unpacking and repacking the largest painting when we needed something from the back of the truck, that the pioneers ended up leaving things along the trail.

Anyway, we brought a tent because we knew we couldn’t sleep in the truck on the trip out to TX.We drove into the Preserve and took a dirt road watching lightening in the distance. We finally found a place where we could park and set up a tent. The moon was spectacular although not a full moon.Here is what it looked like in the morning.

Changing Places

Posted on July 2, 2015 by Robin

About a month ago I went out to feed and wondered by Ringo, 2 year-old ram, was standing by himself and wouldn’t come in. That usually indicates a sick sheep. Ram and broken e-fence When I walked out there I saw that one electric fence wire was spiraled across the pen and Ringo wouldn’t cross it. I had been fixing the fence a couple times per week, tightening the wires, or replacing insulators, and once in awhile fixing a break. Ram and broken e-fence (1) That evening I found this–Foley with wires wrapped all around his horns and his feet. It was worse than it looks in the photo. I had to cut the wraps of wire off of him. I knew that I had to do something better. The goal of this electric wire is to keep the sheep away from the field fence on the south side and the welded wire panels on the north side, both of which the rams can easily destroy. It works well for the ewes and it works for the rams to the extent that they don’t try to eat something on the other side or put their heads through the fence. But it is obvious that the charge is not felt through the horns. The rams actually spend time trying to scratch on the insulators and bash the tree that holds some of the fence. Then their horns catch on the wire and I think they like to fight with the wire just because it’s there. I thought that if I used 4 wires that would keep the rams away…or at least I hoped it would. I also thought that maybe they needed a diversion–something to distract them from the fence. (Dona suggested it and that reminded me that I used to have a big tree stump on a post and the rams would spend time scratching on it.)We sometimes wonder if we’re hoarders, but you’re only a hoarder if you don’t have use for all your stuff, right? I had just found a use for these wheels.

This is version one–tires held upright with a t-stake. I decided that it was probably boring so added a few things.That’s plywood with sharp corners for itchy heads and a couple of dangly chains for sound effects. It took a few days before the rams started to use their new toy but it served it’s purpose…for awhile. Yesterday they were back at the fence and had broken the wire as well as broken off all the insulators on their favorite tree (third photo from the top).

We’re planning to leave for about 10 days and I found myself thinking how I’d explain to my future daughter-in-law/farm sitter how you take the cane and chase the rams into the shed and make them stay in the shed while you find the ends of the broken wire…no, first loosen the wire at the tensioners, then find the broken ends…etc. We debated about what we could do to create a safe place for these rams and be ready to leave in a couple of days.

I finally decided that the simplest idea was to have our rams change places. Faulkner, the BFL, and his buddy would go to the old ram pen and the four Jacob rams would to to Faulkner’s pen, after some reinforcement (2 new welded wire panels). This is the four of them exploring their new digs. They have berry bushes and trees to bash right in the middle of the pen.

This is Faulker, Jerry, and the biggest lamb in the flock, who needed to be separated from the ewes. He is about 100 pounds and looked big next to all the other lambs, but next to Faulkner (about 250 lb), he looks Puny. Let’s hope that everyone is in their proper places in the morning.

Keeping Cool Across the Road

Posted on July 1, 2015 by Robin

I’ve been taking the dogs for walks Across the Road every evening. A big part of that for them is getting in the water. And I don’t even mind getting splashed with dirty water since it’s been (as the weather people are fond of saying) in triple digits. Rusty showed photos in his blog of Ginny’s new toy that floats. That’s an improvement over me having to fish the old toy out of the bottom of the canal. However, it doesn’t mean that I still don’t have to do some fishing. I think that at first it was a mistake, but now Ginny purposely drops the Toy on the side of the cement canal. I guess she has learned that someone will fetch the Toy if she doesn’t. She has also learned that although she can swim against the current in this canal it’s a lot of work and it is hard to get out with the steep angle of the concrete. I have learned two methods–if it is close enough to the side I can usually just reach it with the leash looped into a lasso. My newest method is to scoop it out before it goes under one of the “bridges” (2 x 12 planks). My best idea is to teach her to NOT drop the toy in the cement canal. We’re working on that.In this ditch it doesn’t really matter. Usually there is no water here, but this week they are irrigating the tomatoes and this is the tail-water. This is at the beginning of the walk so Ginny got in the water right away. She was surprised with the Toy disappeared through that hole in the tarp.She really couldn’t figure out where it went.I brought her around to the other side but when she looked in the right place the Toy was in the vortex of water.It’s hard to get a dog to look where you are pointing. Ginny never did see the Toy and guess who fished it out.

This is the canal where it is acceptable to drop the Toy in the water because Ginny will bring it out.

I throw it and Ginny fetches.

Two wet dogs. By the way, Maggie is with us all the time but she doesn’t get in the water very much–only up to her chest. She is usually hoping to find ground squirrels or other varmints.

Meridian Jacobs' Blog

Life on the farm and at the loom.

Monthly Archives: July 2015