Road Trip – Day 5 – Yellowstone

The mosquito situation in camp was no better than the night before so we didn’t linger in camp on our fourth morning. We took just enough time to get our food out of the bear box and for Dan to make his coffee and we got on the road. There are plenty more trails to explore in the Tetons and I hope to make it back there some day.DSC_4525 But this was our next stop and we had two days to see as much of it as we could.Bison Not far into the park we saw our first bison. Initially we didn’t stop for much  because we needed to find a campsite in one of the non-reservation campgrounds. After we secured a spot we were free to plan the day. There are two main loop roads in Yellowstone and we spent the first day exploring the southern one. DSC_4530 This is the Norris Geyser Basin, not far from our campground. That steam on the left was rising out of the ground with the sound of a roaring a furnace. The trail traverses this valley and there are steamy, boiling, gurgling features everywhere.

I took Geology my first quarter of college and decided that I would not be a geologist. I am definitely more of a life sciences type, but I can be awed by these spectacles even if I don’t know the physical science behind them. This landscape is all about color, patterns, bubbles, steam, explosions.DSC_4538   Bison footprints Bison footprints.DSC_4576  DSC_4597 DSC_4604 DSC_4616 DSC_4655 Blue Star Spring in Upper Geyser Basin Upper Geyser Basin Then there is the wildlife.Bison on road along Firehole RiverOn the way south towards Upper Geyser Basin (where Old Faithful is) traffic was stopped on the road. Going around a turn we saw the cause. Bison were walking alongside and on the road. Why not? It was certainly the easiest way to get from one meadow area to another, especially where this canyon narrowed. Passengers scurried ahead of their cars (leaving drivers) to get a better look.DSC_4568Eventually it was our turn to pass the three dozen or more bison as they turned from the road and moved into the forest.Osprey  Osprey over the Upper Geyser Basin. We got to the Visitor Center and Old Faithful just minutes before Old Faithful was due to erupt. After watching we faced a furious wind as we walked a couple of miles along the boardwalks and trails that traverse the Basin, seeing more of this amazing landscape. Craig Pass, It was getting later in the day as we completed the loop road to get back to camp. The road crosses the Continental Divide a couple of times in this area. Living on the West Coast we always think of all water ending up in the Pacific, but crossing the Divide twice in a short distance made me think about it.  We had been following two major waterways, but they end up in different places, the Snake River flowing westward and the Yellowstone River flowing east.DSC_4741 As dusk falls even more animals are visible, although not easy to photograph. It was dark by the time we got back to camp for dinner. I walked up the hill to the bathroom and a woman who was waiting while her cell phone charged pointed out to me what looked like … nothing…well maybe more black than the rest of the dark. There were two bison munching on grass right next to an RV. In the dark it was as though there was a Black Hole. I would never have known they were there. The woman told me that the bison had just walked around the bathroom and stopped to graze there. At that point I decided that the weak batteries in my headlamp were not adequate for the task of walking around Yellowstone at night. 

No moths or mosquitoes at this campsite, but it was dark when we got back, we were out of firewood and it was cold. We quickly cooked our spaghetti and some hot chocolate and went to bed.

Stay tuned for Day 6.

Road Trip – Day 4 – More of the Grand Tetons

DSC_4359 It was cool in the mornings at Grand Teton National Park, but the main reason to suit-up was to keep the mosquitoes off. They were awful–not very conducive to hanging around camp in the morning. That was not our plan anyway — too many places to see, too little time. As soon as Dan had his coffee we were ready to go.DSC_4360 Look who came to the campground for breakfast.DSC_4366 Hiking near String LakeOur first hike for the second day in Grand Teton NP was around String Lake. DSC_4394 Yellow-bellied marmot.Avalanche chuteAt several places there was evidence of avalanches that took out all the trees in their paths and… avalanche chute …obliterated the trail in some places. DSC_4410DSC_4422 Crossing the river at Jenny Lake we saw our first moose.DSC_4428 This is another moose we saw in a meadow along the road on the way to our second stop of the day.

Lunch stop, "Solid 10 for style and effort"

We drove to trailheads at Lupine Meadows…DSC_0463…where we had lunch. You can’t tell from the photo but it was very windy here. Dan sprinted to chase down a plastic bag that blew quite a distance across the parking area.  One of the visitors later stopped at our truck and told him that he and his passengers gave him a “perfect 10 for style and execution”.DSC_4443 We were near the south end of the park and decided to backtrack a short way down the valley to see the National Museum of Wildlife Art. That will be a blog post by itself.DSC_4472 Back in the park we went for another hike, this time to Taggert Lake.DSC_4475 There are magnificent views though out the park.IMG_0062 

Signal Mtn trailAs the sun was going down we drove to the top of Signal Mountain. More spectacular views, but also an unbelievable number of mosquitoes.Signal Mtn trail from Signal Mtn.Late evening view from Signal Mountain.

Once again we got back to camp after dark, so we cooked our meal (spaghetti) and went to bed.

Road Trip – Day 3 – Grand Tetons

Morning of the third day.IMG_0055This is the Snake River near where we camped. We were on the road to Primary Destination #1, Grand Teton National Park. Leaving Jackson, WY DSC_4264 Moose is the headquarters and main visitor center for the Park. We found a campsite and chose a place to hike.supplies including bear sprayWe purchased the necessary supplies. That’s Bear Spray on the right. Yikes!bear warning sign These warnings were everywhere you look – at trailheads, in restrooms, on brochures. OK. I believe…But it won’t happen to me? Right? (Read the fine print on this–that’s scary.)DSC_4267 We chose the Hermitage Point trail, about 9.5 miles. Here’s a view across Jackson Lake. The hardest thing about writing this blog is choosing only a few photos.Arrowleaf balsamrootThe stunning Arrowleaf Balsamroot was everywhere.DSC_4316On the trail.DSC_4291I don’t think National Geographic will be calling me anytime soon, but it was fun to try and get wildlife photos. I think I do better with flowers because I can get closer and they don’t move. But maybe this isn’t bad considering that my longest lens is only 135 mm. DSC_4323Ruffed grouse, according to my bird book.Tent caterpillars These tent caterpillars were everywhere. They eat all the leaves in the area of their tents and can be quite devastating when in large quantities.DSC_4318 Swan Lake DSC_4338I didn’t see any swans in Swan Lake, but there were plenty of geese…sandhill crane …and a sandhill crane.DSC_4334  

We were less than a mile from the end of our hike and nearing dusk when we came upon this in the trail.DSC_4346OK. Time for 2 photos and then retreat.DSC_4346 - Version 2 This is an enhanced closeup of the photo above. The signs all say that the bear is supposed to go away. She didn’t. We backed up and Dan fumbled with the bear spray. I had read the instructions while he was driving but I don’t think he paid attention. “Flip off the orange safety catch with your thumb and then position it in spray position. No, point it at the bear, not us…” Did you know that you have only 4 seconds of spray in one of those cans? Not like the wasp spray we have around here. The bear approached a little more and we retreated more. We were less than a mile to the end of the trail and I really didn’t want to go back. Then we saw other people coming up the trail towards us. These were 3 kids (well, college age) who we had seen on the trail before. It turns out that they didn’t have a map with them and had taken a wrong turn to a dead-end trail, backtracked, and were running to make up time back to headquarters. They were thankful that we stopped them or they would have been running straight at the bear. When we saw a cub come out from behind a log and it was evident that this mama bear was not going to retreat we turned around and started walking the other way. It added only about another two miles to the hike for an 11.5 mile day. (Is this over-dramatic to those of you who live in bear country? I’m sure that I have hiked in bear country before, but I’ve never seen them. The difference is that these animals are not as wary of people as they would be other places–which is great if you want a deer or grouse photo, but not so much an animal with big teeth and claws.)DSC_4357 Sunset over Jackson Lake.

Backpacking at the Lost Coast – Day 3 – and a surprise ending

Matt woke me up about 6 and asked if I was OK. “Sure, except that you woke me up.” It seems that Kaleena had been very sick since about 1 a.m. and was not getting any better. We were about 9 miles from the truck, the last 4 of which were uphill the whole way. There is no cell service for a lot of this trek, but we happened to be in an area with Verizon service (though not AT&T). Matt talked to people in the closest emergency dispatch location about our options. Eventually the decision was made to fly Kaleena out via Coast Guard helicopter. Matt, Kaleena, and their two friends who were with us all work for the US Forest Service and Matt is has worked as a helispot manager so they were able to find a suitable landing spot and guide the helicopter in. 1508012_10152820397059896_405817080462470070_nAs Kaleena wrote when she posted this photo, that blue lump in the foreground is her lying in the sand while waiting for the helicopter. Matt talked to the Coast Guard guys and sent me on the helicopter with Kaleena and both of our backpacks. That way he and his buddies and the dogs could make the 9 miles back to the truck more quickly. (Yeah, so I can’t keep up with a bunch of 30 year olds on a mission!) Kaleena and I ended up at a hospital in Eureka by 10:30 a.m.  Matt made it back up the mountain in about 3 1/2 hours but still had a long drive to get to Eureka about 5 p.m.

This was an unfortunate ending to our trip, but it all ended up OK. Kaleena is fine now and I had a gorgeous view of the coastline and the mountains (and certainly less wear and tear on the body). We plan to do this again, but finish the trip differently!

 

 

 

 

Backpacking at the Lost Coast – Day 2

The goal for this morning was to hike south to Miller Flat where we would spend the night. IMG_9531IMG_9538IMG_9543DSC_2472After we set up camp I did some more exploring. Walking another mile or so was no problem once I was able to ditch the pack. The scenery and flowers were spectacular.DSC_2454DSC_2443DSC_2468Wild iris.DSC_2475As I’ve said in other posts the poison oak can be very pretty although its definitely best to avoid it.

Back at camp there was no shortage of wildlife, although I wasn’t able to do much about photographing sea lions or a river otter with my 40mm lens. (I tried, but won’t bore you with those photos where you have to know which speck is the subject animal.) DSC_2404DSC_2428 Kaleena was photographing one of her favorite flowers right next to camp and was about to step over a log when she saw this:DSC_2430DSC_2436 It eventually slithered under the log. Maybe the beach is a safer trek.DSC_2311My kids could be active-wear models.DSC_2521This made me nervous. Matt wanted to get photos of the surf as it rolled in under his camera.IMG_9570Another great dinner. This time it was mac and cheese with fresh veggies followed by s’mores with your choice of graham crackers or fresh apple slices or both.Trail mixOf course there was always trail mix for snacking.DSC_2517  

Sunset on the beach.DSC_2542 The  colors of the sky and ocean changed to pinks and greens as the sun went down.        DSC_2563 My tent at dusk. (Rainfly necessary this night.)

 

Backpacking at the Lost Coast – Day 1

My son and DIL invited me to join them and a couple of their friends on a backpacking trip to one of their favorite spots. According to Wikipedia, “the steepness and related geo-technical challenges of the coastal mountains made this stretch of coastline too costly for state highway or county road builders to establish routes through the area, leaving it the most undeveloped and remote portion of the California coast”. Since Matt and Kaleena did all the planning, food prep, etc all I had to do was gather up or borrow the right clothes and gear. DSC_2191 We drove about 5 hours north to a campsite outside of the town of Honeydew in Humboldt County where we spent the night. The next morning we drove to the the Kinsey Ridge Trailhead to begin the hike. DSC_2194 I borrowed  backpack since I couldn’t find mine (and the last time I had used it was about 30 years ago so this one was probably a little better).IMG_9481 There was a four mile trek down the mountain to get to the beach. After that the trail is along the beach or through meadows just above.IMG_9483 IMG_9548DSC_2232 Every mile or so there is another river running out of the mountains into the ocean. This was where we camped the first night.DSC_2210Time to unpack the dogs and relax a bit.DSC_2247 First order of business was to secure our site by setting up the tents. There were not very many people hiking the area, but Matt and Kaleena have their favorite spots and you can’t exactly reserve a site. View from my tent This is the view of the ocean from inside my tent. No rain fly needed the first night.DSC_2230Matt and Kaleena’s friends didn’t bring tents but constructed a temporary shelter from the wind with rocks and driftwood. DSC_2255Next it was time to explore the area and wash the poison oak off the dogs.DSC_2214

DSC_2220The chef Matt was the chef. IMG_9499He and Kaleena had prepared enough veggies to last us for 3 dinners.DSC_2302After watching the sun set over the ocean…IMG_9512…we enjoyed s’mores back at camp before turning in for the night.

Pinnacles National Park, Part 2

Does a 2-day camping trip warrant 2 blog posts? For me it does because we don’t do this very often. And I took lots of photos.

We discovered that we did sleep relatively all right in the truck, although I was told that I had more than my share of the “mattress”. Huh!

The next morning we checked the map and chose the hike for the day.DSC_1127 This was the first leg of a 5.5 mile hike. Notice the word Condor. I took my binoculars on this hike, determined to identify a condor this day. Pinnacles is one of the few remaining areas where the endangered California Condors live and nest.DSC_1130

This trail winds up the mountain and behind those peaks in the distance.DSC_1134Getting closer to the peaks. At this point we talked to a wildlife biologist who was using an antennae to try and pick up a signal of the condors who are banded with transponders. She said that they do nest in these cliffs but today she hadn’t found any. They don’t always stay in the park area. We saw plenty of soaring birds but they kept turning out to be buzzards.DSC_1131  More of the trail.  DSC_1173 This is coming around the west side of those peaks. The vegetation was somewhat different than that of yesterday’s hike except for one plant.DSC_1164There was plenty of poison oak, although these trails are wider than those on our Stebbins Cold Canyon hike so it’s easier to avoid. I was struck by the beautiful shades of green in the poison oak.DSC_1190 Color abounds.

DSC_1193 This was an interesting trail. Notice that railing under the overhanging rock.DSC_1200The Park Service (or maybe it was the CCC years ago) thoughtfully provided steps (and, thankfully, railings) so that hikers could get over these rocks.DSC_1215 The views are worth the climb.CA GiliaWhat would a hike for me be without a few flower photos? Believe me, I took many more than this even though, due to the dry conditions in Northern California, there was not the abundance of wildflowers that I think there would normally be at this time of year. I think I have identified this as a patch of California Gilia (Gilia achilleifolia).DSC_1243 CA GDSC_1272 I think that this plant is Wild Cucumber or California Manroot (Marah macrocarpa). What we noticed on this hike is that the spiralling tendrils that look like a telephone cord (yes, that dates me) start out straight. When the straight tendril touches something it coils and hangs on. Amazing. 

As usual I tried my hand at wildlife photography. Those bee photos are the only ones I’ll show. The bunny, the crow, and the lizard weren’t all that great. The condor look-alike perched on a branch turned out to be a buzzard when I looked at the photo close-up. DSC_1296

This looks like condor country to me…DSC_1748…but this was the closest I got to a condor.  Good trip anyway.